Day 9: O Cádavo – Lugo

Yesterday we ate together with the 60 year old E. from California, who is working in the it sector. Today I walked some time with him and we talked about work, family and so on. The weather was nice and the way rather long, about 30km. Near Gondar, about 11km before Lugo, was a Oasis pelegrino where you can get water and fresh fruits and can pay as much as you want (donativo).

I met V. who walked on his Camino from his home town in France without money. He sleeps mostly in churches and asks people for food. He has almost finished his studies in medicine and he thinks about the question whether he should get vaccinated and finish his studies or if he should stay unvaccinated because of his conviction that vaccination has to be a free decision without pressure from the state… In which case he could not finish his studies and wanted to get a writer. I tried to find arguments for the first case without sounding like his father, whom he does not listen to… He said thank you for the wise decision help but he wants to wait with his decision until Santiago and I do not know at all what he will decide.

As a group we sat in the first bar in Lugo and had something to drink and some tapas… Afterwards it was siesta in my hostel and so I will check in later after 19.00.

Day 8: Fonsagrada – O Cádavo

Today it rained a little bit and I walked about 24 km. It is good, that it rained only a little bit… Because with more rain it should be the most difficult part of the Camino Primitivo. Even so A. – S., the female pilgrim in our group, fell one time… But she was only full of mud, nothing else happened. And in my albergue there was a pilgrim who I did not know who treated his wounds with desinfectant.. He was bitten by a dog after he tried to run away and fell down… So probably running away from a dog is never a good idea. Until now I have only heard of biting dogs but never have seen bites.

The views today were with fog and many clouds.

The single room was booked out, so I am in a dormitory. But at the moment it is looking good… Only two other pilgrims in the room and I am next to the window.

Day 7: Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada

Yesterday in the evening I got the news that I am not in the SAP project. That is a pity. But probably the project would have meant that I need to work more than I want to.

Today it was cloudy. I went to the top of a hill again and felt a little weak then. But afterwards it got better again.

The way markers in Galicia are huge.

So we are now in Galicia and at the end of the day the first half of the distance to Santiago de Compostela is finished.

I am glad that it rained only after I arrived in the albergue after about 26 km.

Day 5: Pola de Allande – Berducedo

I started early in the dark and followed the gpx tracks on my phone. There were some houses and two dogs, that barked loudly and seemed more upset about me than the other dogs on the Camino. I went by and a few hundred meters later my way ended. OK, I thought… My gpx tracks are outdated and the dogs were not used to pilgrims. So I went back and followed the right way.

Then there was the longest rise until now. And there were cows as well.

And a nice scenery.

Then downwards again. So I arrived early in Berducedo. The village is in a valley and I had no internet or phone connection. The wifi of the pension did not work as well. That was bad, because I had an important phone call where I should apply for a longterm project directly with the company Sap… What is something special. OK… So I walk up the hill again and waited in the forest for the call… Call should be at 15.00 and weather forecast says no rain until 17.00… So that is OK. At 1450 the rain began… The phone call was OK, but I could not answer all technical question. They want to notify me on Friday.

At the end I was wet… And the funny detail was that the sun was shining again as I arrived in the albergue.


Day 4: Tineo – Pola de Allande

The day started with breakfast and a good Cafe con leche in the pensión. Then I walked in the dark and had a very pretty sunrise.


Later on I was in a bar with 2 Spanish guys and a woman from Colombia. They only spoke Spanish and I was like a little child that only understands a part of the conversation.
Today was a longer walk with about 28km and many ups and downs. And some point I felt my left knee. I was glad that this did not get worse and was gone again some time later.
Shortly before Pola de Allande I was “in the flow‘. I was grateful for being there and liked the walking very much.
After arriving in town I had the normal routine: taking a shower, washing, buying snacks for the next day and eating with some pilgrims.

Day 3: Salas – Tineo

I slept in a dormitory with about 9 other pilgrims. The albergue was tidy and normally everyone wears a mask… But while sleeping it is not necessary I think… And I tried it but it felt very inconvenient for sleeping. So I put my mask away in the night. I think it is not really good if you think of covid and aerosoles and a room with bad ventilation and many people without masks…. So I will try to have a room for my own if it is possible.

Today I walked about 20 km from Salas to Tineo. The biggest climb was in the morning when it was still fresh.
We had again great views, cats, flowers and blackberries.


I walked for maybe one hour with Tobi, a student of a teaching degree for mathematics and history. Today I had a room in a pension and then I wanted to buy some snacks for tomorrow…. Until Tobi told me, that it is Sunday. So probably I am in holiday mode if I forget the day of the week.
At 8 pm we want to have a pilgrim menu in another albergue in a group of 6 pilgrims.

Day 2: Grado – Salas

Today I walked from Grado to Salas about  22.2 km.
I stood up and then started to walk at about 7.00. Almost one hour later I saw the sunrise.

The ups and downs make it harder then the distance seems to be.
The most interesting church looks old and is closed.

I have not booked today and the first albergue is full (completo). The second is full as well and as I wanted to go, the hospitalera looks in her book again and says: It is an mistake, one bed is still free.
I ate in another albergue with 2 Dutch, 2 Belgian and 2 Austrian pilgrims. It was fun and now I will post this and then I will go to bed.

1st day – Oviedo to Grado

I went from Oviedo to Grado about 25 km. There are many well-tasting blackberries. I think they have more sun than in Germany and more rain than in the Tuscany.
With the hills and the rain from the sea it looks a little bit like Bavaria close to the mountains.


There are many cats and I miss my cat.


In the sun of the early afternoon I am glad that I arrive… I feel that my feet are less trained than at the end of my two last caminos.

Traveling to Oviedo

Today I went by car with my family to the airport of Munich. After saying good-bye I took my flight to Bilbao. I had checked in online and my Spanish Health Travel App knew already that I was vaccinated… So I had no problems at the air port. I liked the flight and my window seat as I do not fly often. This was somewhere in France…

The bus from the airport drove to the bus station Bilbao intermodal…. And from there the Alsa bus to Oviedo.

The cathedral of Oviedo was already closed.